2014

Heads up! This is a really long post!

We have a tradition of traveling outside the U.S. for Justin’s birthday. While at dinner on our last night in Bermuda last year, he asked me where in the world, besides Paris, did I most want to go. Without any need to ponder my answer, I instantly gave my selection. “Then that’s where we’re going next,” he said.

I’ve wanted to visit this city ever since 2004, or 2005… whatever year I read The Thief Lord. The author of the novel said she set the story there because she wanted to show readers that there is a magical place that really exists. You can’t really go to Hogwarts or Middle Earth, but you can go to the city built on water.

So, after months of planning and weeks of Italian lessons, we went.

We spent nine days and ten nights in the most beautiful city in the world – the city of Venice.

Let’s begin with what I call Day Zero, because it was too much of a blur for me to remember it as anything else…

Day Zero. It was our travel day, in more ways than one. We traveled from place to place to place – Detroit to Paris to Venice. And before we had even stepped onto the planes that would take us from time zone to time zone, we had already traveled through time, courtesy of the ending the inexplicable phenomenon known as Daylight Saving Time. And if you think that didn’t totally mess with our heads, think again.

We left home on a Sunday afternoon and arrived in Italy the following day. After an unexpected delay at the airport, due to Justin’s debit card not allowing for overseas transactions (even though he’d arranged for it prior to our departure) and an internationally roaming cell phone call to clear that up, by the time we boarded the vaporetto (water taxi) for Venice, we were semi-delirious. We’d been awake nearly 24 hours straight on two continents while the language changed from English to French to Italian in I don’t even remember how many time zones. Our brains were a bit exhausted and we were out of it, to say the least. But when the Rialto Bridge appeared, we were suddenly wide awake and awestruck.

We wanted this trip to feel more like living as Venetians than being on vacation, so we decided to rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel. The owner of the apartment we rented met us at the vaporetto stop and walked us to the place that would be our home while we were in town.

You know the scene in Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone when Hagrid takes Harry to Diagon Alley for the first time and Harry is so amazed by everything that his eyes just about pop out of his head? Well, that was me taking my first steps through Venice. As I looked around, I had a thought. Fortunately, I had enough mental control to keep it to myself and not sound like a complete fool by verbalizing it.

My stupid thought? “Wow! This place looks just like The Venetian in Vegas!”

Did I mention I was semi-delirious?

We spent our first night getting settled in and went to bed early to prepare for…

Day One. We decided to spend our first day just wandering around and familiarizing ourselves with the streets, landmarks, and neighborhoods. There are no cars or bicycles in Venice, so you get around by foot or by boat.

Now, what news on the Rialto?

We couldn’t resist quoting a little Shakespeare as we took in the view of the Grand Canal from the bridge.

St. Mark is the patron saint of Venice and the winged lion is the symbol of St. Mark. Suffice it to say, you can’t shake a stick without hitting a winged lion in Venice, especially in St. Mark’s Square. But when your winged lion looks this cool, it’s hard to complain.

I thought these Pinocchios were adorable, so I stopped for a shot and I spotted a tiny critter among them who seemed a little out of place. Justin’s been to Australia twice, and we happen to have those very koalas perched all over the house, so I was tickled pink to see one sitting in a Venetian window display.

Here’s the view from our apartment’s altana (rooftop terrace) as twilight swept over the city. Good night, Venice!

Day Two. I’m not gonna lie about our second day. We slept through almost the whole thing.

We actually woke around 7:00 a.m. to what sounded like a space ship landing (we later learned it was the acqua alta alarm), but our monster jet lag made it easy to drift back to sleep. The next time we opened our eyes, it was after 1:00 p.m.! I reasoned that given the six hour time difference, we were waking up right about when we normally did back home, but Justin was not amused.

It was raining, and we were mad at ourselves for sleeping away the day, so neither one of us was in a particularly good mood. I carried my camera around, but I didn’t shoot much, so I only have a few shots to share from this mostly wasted day.

This one from the mirror in the grand entrance hall at the Correr Museum…

And these ones Justin captured of my enthusiastic splashing as the acqua alta (high water) started filling St. Mark’s Square. Before we left home, I had wished for acqua alta while we were in Venice, and oh boy, did I get my wish. I didn’t know it yet, but these little puddles were nothing compared to what was coming…

Day Three. It was raining again when we woke up, but were determined to get out and get going.

A proper Venetian day begins with coffee in St. Mark’s Square. I know I’m not supposed to say this, but I couldn’t stand Italian coffee. Even the Caffè Americanos were too intense for my apparently tame palate. So most days, I did the unthinkable and skipped my morning coffee altogether. Sightseeing in St. Mark’s Square was my wake-me-up.

While we were planning our trip, I read about this place in one of our guidebooks and I couldn’t wait to see it in person.

Presenting, the Acqua Alta Bookshop!

Books in bathtubs, books in gondolas, books in boats…

…and even stairs made of books!

The view from the top of the book stairs was pretty impressive.

Day Four. It was Justin’s birthday and it wasn’t raining (for the moment) so we set off for the Bridge of Sighs. Once upon a time, the trials of accused criminals were held in the Doge’s Palace, and if they were found guilty, they were escorted across the bridge to prison. According to legend, they would gaze out the window, take their last look at the glory of Venice, and sigh.

We weren’t sure how long the rain would hold out, so we explored the Royal Gardens while we could.

After the gardens, we toured the Doge’s Palace, the former home of the former leader of Venice.

Someday I’d like to have a courtyard like the Doge – nothing elaborate or fancy, just a nice little understated number like this…

We crossed the Bridge of Sighs and saw the view that inspired the bridge’s name.

And posing as Doge, here’s the birthday boy.

Day Five. (I’ll get around to writing the copy. I promise.)

Day Six.

Day Seven.

Day Eight.

Day Nine. Here’s what I wrote in my trip journal for this day…

We had hoped for a sunny day for our last full day in Venice, but this dream did not come true.

It wasn’t raining when we left the apartment, but it began soon after. It rained with a purpose and a fury and, for the first time since we’ve been here, with thunder and lightning.

No matter, we boarded the vaporetto anyway and traveled to the island of San Giorgio to climb the bell tower and take in a stunning view of Venice.

When we arrived, we were a bit confused as to how to actually get to the bell tower and we wandered around in the torrential downpour for a bit while we figured out that we just had to go inside the church and follow the arrows for the bell tower tour. Sometimes things are hidden in plain sight.

Needless to say, by the time we stepped off the elevator (hey, at least there was an elevator) in the bell tower high above San Giorgio, we were soaked to the bone. The rain sprayed into the tower, and we just laughed at the foolishness of standing tall and wet in the first place the lightning might look for us.

Even through the sheets of rain, the views were incredible. We could see the whole coast of Venice from a new perspective. When we decided we were ready to be dry again, we took the vaporetto back to Venice and came back to the apartment to warm up.

We ventured out again while the rain was having a brief intermission. We needed to get some stamps and mail our postcards, so we had to find a post office. It was hidden pretty well but we finally found it and discovered that a trip to the Italian post office is much like visiting one in the US – long lines and surly staff. Then we treated ourselves to lunch at Al Calice, a little restaurant right downstairs from our apartment that we walk past everyday and have been meaning to try. Their lunch special was lobster pasta, which sounded amazing so we both ordered it, and it was remarkable!

We spent the rest of the afternoon packing up and getting ready to fly home tomorrow, but we still had some souvenir shopping to do, so we ventured out again. The rain had briefly stopped again and Justin pointed out that this was our last chance for a gondola ride. We’ve been waiting for a clear, dry night, but we just haven’t gotten one.

Suddenly we were sitting in a gondola and cruising through the canals. I wish I could say we caught our gondolier’s name, but we didn’t. He was fantastic, very charming and funny. He pointed out historic buildings, but didn’t go overboard with unnecessary narration. He even sang for us and offered umbrellas when it started raining (of course it did). We went through some of the smaller canals and under the Rialto Bridge in the Grand Canale. Even in the rain, it was absolutely magical. Well worth every euro.

We got our last gelato of Venice at the same place that we got our first gelato. Then we finished up our shopping and came back to the apartment to finish packing.

It’s been a very rainy ten days but it’s been a wonderful adventure. Venice is a special place and I can’t wait to come back and explore even more.